Judging by the disproportionately large number of responses I got to a previous article “Get Motivated Business Seminar an Enjoyable Scam”, it would seem that people would rather read about that kind of stuff. But I started this website to talk about rad adventures, so this article gets back to the roots of inspiration for Adventure Stories. I’ll try to keep the content jived up so there’s a little of everything, but a recent backpacking trip to Switzerland is the sort of thing that gets me jived up. Here’s the story:
During the summer of 2009 I spent life at an elevation of zero, being on the water mostly. I went through basic officer training for the NOAA Corps, and when it was over I found myself with some down time until the start of my first assignment. I realized this was an opportunity to get in some backpacking, to hit the mountains while the warmth of summer lingered. But where should I go? Since I was in New York, the Catskills or Adirondacks were obvious choices, but I was in the mood for larger scale terrain. For me the definition of a good backpacking trip involves big granite. I looked at airfares and decided a ticket to Zurich was the best deal going. About 100% of the people I have met that have been to Switzerland report their experience was fantastic. So I thought I would give Switzerland a try.
What I knew about Switzerland was that it was in Europe. What I didn’t know was that the mountains there are insane. I figured I would hit the Swiss Alps with the same mentality that I apply to my backyard mountains, the Sierra Nevada of California. In the Sierras I customarily plan out routes that break from established trails for several days and cross rugged terrain, ideally bagging a summit or two along the way. This behavior is encouraged by the terrain of the Sierras, which is both rugged yet accessible. Challenging cross country routes can be accomplished without any special mountaineering gear. The Swiss Alps, on the other hand, are in a whole another category, as I was about to discover.
the Cabane du Grand Mountet is as a speck in the bottom middle of the photo, dwarfed by the Grand Cornier and Dent Blanche
I arrived in Switzerland with little trouble and immediately verified as true the rumors I’d heard of a clean, friendly country boasting smooth and efficient public transportation. In less than 5 hours I traveled across the country, effortlessly negotiating 2 train and 2 bus connections to get from the Zurich International Airport to the tiny mountain town of Zinal After acquiring several topographic maps, widely available at bookstores, information offices, and sometimes even grocery stores, I was ready to begin a foray into the Swiss Alps. I decided that my first destination would be the Cabane du Grand Mountet and from there I would explore the possibility of a cross country route to the Mattertal Valley where the Matterhorn resides. Beginning in Zinal, I climbed 4000 feet, finally reached the cabane (cabin) late in the afternoon. I could tell right away that onward travel was almost certainly out of the question. This was not the Sierras. The terrain of the high Alps turned out to be far more rugged than I had imagined, with glaciers and steep slopes of ice and snow blocking every likely route. I was dreadfully unprepared to handle these types of alpine conditions, so I resolved that I would probably have to stick to established trails in the Alps.
As I mentioned, my first destination was a cabin. It turns out that nobody pitches a tent in the Swiss Alps (in fact I believe that it may be illegal to do so). Typical overnight accommodation is in a cabin which is something like a hostel or bed & breakfast smacked into the wilderness. But the term cabin is ambiguous so let me provide more descriptive language: two story, multi-room stone structure with caretaker quarters, kitchen, bar and dining room. This is the Swiss way of backpacking. And yes, you heard right, I did say bar. This is only natural for the Swiss, who enjoy the company of a cold beer or glass of wine after a hard day of crossing icy glaciers and sheer terrain. I have to say that I quickly adjusted to the availability of such refreshments, unexpected as it was. For those curious, I’ll mention a few additional details about the cabin experience: sleeping accommodations are 8-12 people per room (maximum), blanket and mattress provided. Meals come in two flavors, meaty and vegetarian, and the quality is typically very satisfying. Beer may or may not be available on tap (you may have to settle for a can), but regardless the prices are reasonable considering the remote location of these cabins. I paid $68 per night for a bed, dinner and breakfast, and another $8 for every super sized mug of beer. I slept in rooms that were were never more than half full. I would like to day that I slept well but I find it hard to sleep in a room with strangers making little stranger sounds throughout the night. So while I loved the warmth, cuisine, and beer of the Swiss mountain hut experience, I missed the solitude of a sleeping bag and personal shelter typical of backpacking in the Sierras. Then again, the terrain and climate of the Sierras is a little more conducive to sleeping outdoors, so maybe the Swiss have good reason for blanketing their country with a network of wilderness cabins.
To sum up Switzerland, I would say the following. The country is easy to get around and if you only speak English you can get by, but some German or French can’t hurt. The mountains are extremely rugged and even if you stick to established trails you might find yourself tackling a 3000-4000 foot climb with exposed sections. In general, the trailheads begin far below the summits. Should you decide to head off the trails in the higher elevations, be ready for glaciers and mountaineering conditions. Ski lifts and gondolas are abundant, so many hikers and climbers cut out their initial elevation gains by riding a lift and continuing the trek from there. Staying in the huts is often mandatory, so don’t expect to be able to pitch a tent anywhere you like. However, other restrictions seem more relaxed, for example most trails are bike and dog friendly, assuming your bike or dog is up to the challenge. About the only common compliant with Switzerland is the cost, and indeed it is no budget destination. But I found that Switzerland was a good value meaning that the experience was worth the price. I fyour budget is tight, do what I did and backpack your way from cabin to cabin, expecting to pay about $68 per night for a bed and two meals. In short, the country is gorgeous; Switzerland is hard to beat.
Matterhorn at night, as seen from the Schonbielle Hutte
Schonbielle Hutte, with the Matterhorn in the background
above the Schonbielle Hutte attempting a climb in less than favorable conditions
Slabs of stone can be used as a roofing material? Awesome!
Gateway to the Swiss side of the Matterhorn is the town of Zermatt. Zermatt reminds me of Aspen, Colorado.
Lucerne is a set on a deep blue lake and as a town, it is hip and chic and old and new
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